Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.
Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, the maison conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.
This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5196P, is housed in a 37mm platinum case with a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, and a polished bezel. It features a crisp, silver dial with a brushed outer ring and a matte center, applied Breguet numerals, a sub-seconds register at 6:00, and a white gold ‘feuille’' handset. At just 8mm tall, its elegance is matched only by its comfort on-wrist.
Within a polished snap-on caseback is the manually-wound Calibre 215 movement, while a signed, black alligator leather strap with a signed platinum pin buckle completes a picture of dressy refinement. To seal the deal, this piece is accompanied by its factory goodies and certificate of origin dating to 2009.
Sure, you could get yourself a modern dress watch that tells the time just fine — and that probably ends up in a drawer after a while. But a real Calatrava from the world’s greatest watchmaker is forever.