Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.
Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Patek conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.
This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5143J 'Travel Time,' makes use of Patek’s incredibly useful and easy-to-use jumping hour system found in the Calibre 215 PS FUS manual winding movement. Operated by two pushers nicely integrated into the left profile of the 37mm yellow gold case, this piece offers the handy ability to quickly change the local hours both forward or backwards. Additional features include a sapphire crystal, a signed, screw-down and guarded crown, a silver opalin dial with a applied yellow gold indices and a matching dauphine handset, and a signed black alligator leather strap with a signed yellow gold deployant clasp.
Sporting GMTs or Wold Times not for you? This is an elegant solution for a the frequent traveler, while still retaining some sporting features, and is a fantastic change to own a beautiful example of one of the watch world’s most timeless models.