What you’re looking at is arguably one of the most beautiful perpetual calendar watches ever made, full stop. And perhaps one of the most important, too.
The reference 3940 was born in 1985, at a time when the watch world was in the midst of the Quartz Crisis and most brands were churning out inexpensive, battery-powered watches — and struggling to stay afloat. Alas, Patek Philippe was never one to follow the crowd, and released both the ref. 3940 perpetual calendar and the ref. 3970 perpetual calendar chronograph with in-house, micro-rotor-equipped automatic movements — a gauntlet drop if ever there was one.
Made in several series and different metals, the watch we have here is a 3940J, a second-series example dating to the late 1980s. Housed in a 36mm yellow gold case, it features a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, a polished bezel, and one hell of a dial: Silver with rose gold dauphine hands and applied indices, it has a combination month/leap year indicator at 3 o’clock; a moon phase/date wheel at 6 o’clock; and a day/24-hour indicator at 9 o’clock. Simple, elegant and refined, it’s a design that was positively revolutionary in the 1980s, and still looks stunning today. (Plus, this one is a coveted “Sigma” variant, with the small Greek letter at the bottom designating the presence of gold componentry.)
This 3940J is powered by the in-house Patek Philippe Calibre 240Q movement with micro rotor, and comes equipped with a signed, black alligator leather strap with a yellow gold buckle.
Not convinced? Don’t take our word for it — take noted Patek expert John Reardon’s: “For the price, there is arguably no other watch that encapsulates all that defines Patek Philippe.”